Thursday, October 15, 2009

opens and novice training.

claudia says: you have to plan your route before going - know where your hand is going to go, and where your foot is going to step. every minute on the wall you have to know what you're doing.


i am reminded of what is mindfulness. to know what you're doing every second, every minute of being awake. this is called awareness, as i faintly recall being taught once. 

today's training: 
ARC
flash comp:
tsunami wall - felicia's route
  •               work on Lhand-Lfoot match on green sloper start + RH pink crimp, LH to next tile.
smiley face wall - crystel's route
             Rhand-Rfoot match.


 sun;moon wall - chloe's route(start on wall L of apex)

            work on no foothold start. to Rside sloper on apex.


sun;moon wall - sandra's route(starts on Rside of apex) ** <- to complete
            route planning             blue "no. 8 shape" tile to purple jug.

 sun;moon wall - claudia's route(starts on left side of wall)** <- to do last move

         no foothold start, 2handholds start to Lside yellow jug. 
  •          work on last move:
         RH hold, LF cross over to blue smooth crimpy thing, end on toilet bowl on ceiling.


lizard wall - yuxin's route * <- to do last move- no fear!
  •           work on starting move:
          Lfoot smearing + yellow crimp start, RF flat red outward sloping foothold, RH TO BLUE WHITE JUG

sandra was so encouraging and helpful here. what went through my head was : i can do it.
claudia says that i have to plan my route before going, and not go up the wall not knowing what's next.

        last move:

        LH yellow long tile, RH reddish brown tile with 2 nose holes(1 for fingers, 1 for the screw), LH TO BLUE SLOPER END. LF step. marissa&chloe did LH-LF match.

man wall - clara's route ( i like!)
     Lcalf muscle cramped + Rlower back muscle cramped. while bridging to read RH red white sloperish dumbell shape tile.


38degrees wall - marissa's route*
work on starting move: crammed start. green sloper start with one foothold directly below. next tile a LH move, then a RH move

i came down from the wall, and claudia glares at me and tells me to sit in the corner for 20 mins because i didn read the route i.e. didn't know which is the foothold.
         

the way sandra does it. its an inspiration. i wanna be just like her.

clara makes ppl believe - if she can do it, so can you!




"go crystal."
i hear fel's voice.
i hear claudia's voice.
i hear doris's voice.

sandra there to help thereafter.
or marissa gives her advice; always there to help suggest the move.




today's
home regime       ankle + calf muscles activating exercise. 8 on each leg.
                           tip toe squats. 8.
                           xin hui's scoop move. 8 on each leg.
                          => being aware of activation of calf muscles to stick onto foothold!


next time @ the gym:
hand-foot matching, heel hooking.

progressively: no foothold start i.e. both foot smearing.

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